Almost daily we get asked what the most important rear suspension upgrades are for a 2015+ S550. The honest framing of the question is simpler than the answer: what good is horsepower if you cannot put it to the ground?
So Jared and Christy took Project Goldmember, our 2018 Mustang GT, over to BMR Suspension in Seffner, Florida for the Kelly Aiken treatment. Kelly knows these cars in a way very few people do. He has run GoPros underneath his own car to watch what the suspension is actually doing, and BMR parts are under two of the fastest IRS cars in the country.
What follows is what he showed us, including the physical evidence on our own car, and the three packages we built with him.
What We Found Under the Car
This is the part that changes how you think about IRS traction. None of it is theory. It is wear marks on our own car from track use.
The Cradle Is Rocking
The factory cradle bushing has a small lip on top that acts as a limiter. On our 2018 A10 car, Kelly pointed out that when we launched at the track, that limiter was hitting the chassis and leaving a witness mark on the body. The cradle was not flexing slightly. It was moving far enough to bottom out its own travel stop against the body of the car.
The Differential Has Moved
The front differential bushings have small metal alignment nubs built in. On a healthy car those protrusions are barely visible, if at all. On ours, the passenger side was sticking way out and the driver's side slightly out. That tells you the diff moved enough to compromise the clamping force of the bolt, and then re-seated itself diagonally.
The rear diff bushings told the same story from the other end: the bolt on the passenger side was sitting much higher on the bushing than the driver's side.
The Three Packages Compared
| Biscuits & Gravy Level 1 |
Bread & Butter Level 2 |
Steak & Potatoes Level 3 |
|
|---|---|---|---|
| Best for | Daily driven, HPDE, weekend racing | Serious street/strip | Hardcore track, total IRS solution |
| Proven at | 9-second runs, 1.3 60-ft | Well into the 8s, 1.2-1.4 60-ft | Beyond that |
| Cradle bushings | CB010 lockout | CB005 lockout kit | Solid mounting |
| LCA bearing | BK081 | BK081 | Yes, plus more |
| Vertical links | TCA048 | TCA048 | Billet aluminum |
| Diff bushings | - | BK051 lockout | Billet aluminum |
| Toe rods | - | TR005 double adjustable | Yes |
| Springs | - | - | Yes |
| NVH | No increase | Minimal | Yes, deliberately |
Biscuits & Gravy: Level 1
Bread & Butter came first and got popular fast. But it is more than some people need, particularly if you daily the car and just want to harness the power you have at the track occasionally, road race, run HPDEs, or race on weekends.
So we went back to Kelly for the bare essentials. These parts have seen 9-second runs and 1.3 60-foot times. That is a serious result from a starter package, and it is why we point most people here first.
BK081 Spherical Lower Control Arm Bearing
"One of the most important and overlooked components."
Kelly Aiken, BMR SuspensionFactory bushings are moulded from soft rubber and contain voids and air pockets. Those voids let the lower control arm move during aggressive launching and driving. A solid spherical setup eliminates the voids, which eliminates the movement, and it also keeps the wheels from moving forward from bushing deflection at wide open throttle.
TCA048 Vertical Links
Light and strong, and they limit the range of cradle movement while still offering bushing compliance and no increased NVH. BMR's are the only vertical link on the market whose bushings can be greased and serviced on the car, which matters more than it sounds three years in.
CB010 Cradle Bushing Lockout
6061-T6 billet aluminum and stainless steel. Billet upper lockout rings capture the inner bushing sleeve front and rear, plus the outer lip of the bushing cup at the front. Lower locating washers capture the bottom of the bushings' inner sleeves. Movement on any plane, fore and aft, lateral and vertical, is nearly eliminated.
Proven to 9s and 1.3 60-ft
No increase in NVH
The place to start
Stops LCA movement at WOT
Kelly's most overlooked part
Movement nearly eliminated on all planes
Level 1 lockout
Limits cradle movement
Only links serviceable on the car
Also available in red
Bread & Butter: Level 2
We asked Kelly to pick the components he considered most beneficial for these cars. He called them the bread and butter in the video, which is where the name came from. This set supports cars going well into the 8s, and owners chasing low 1.2 to 1.4 60-foot times.
It builds on Level 1's thinking and then addresses the two problems the evidence above revealed: the cradle rocking, and the differential moving.
CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
An 80% to 90% reduction in fore/aft and lateral cradle bushing deflection. It includes spacer rings that lock out the top of the cradle bushing so it cannot deflect at WOT, and lower bushing mounts that stop the lower bushing dipping down and causing the pinion to rise.
BK051 Differential Bushing Lockout Kit
Eliminates the voids in the stock differential bushing setup and locks the differential's movement, which is what keeps you from breaking driveline components.
TR005 Double Adjustable Rear Toe Rods
The factory pieces are stamped steel with an eccentric bolt that slips and pivots under load, which changes your rear alignment while you are driving. BMR's hold geometry better through the suspension arc thanks to an offset spherical bushing, come with lockout plates to defeat the factory eccentric, and offer a wide adjustment range.
Supports well into the 8s
1.2-1.4 60-ft territory
Spacer rings lock the top
Lower mounts stop pinion rise
Also in red
Locks diff movement
Prevents driveline breakage
Includes eccentric lockout plates
Wide adjustment range
Also in red
Covered in its own write-up
For Brembo and Perf Pack cars
Steak & Potatoes: Level 3
Catered to people who are hardcore about racing the car. Steak & Potatoes is Bread & Butter on steroids: a total IRS solution that solidly mounts both the subframe and the differential to the chassis, and adds springs and further components on top of Level 2.
Solidly mounts subframe and diff
Adds springs and more
Hardcore track use
The Hardware Decision
If you are doing the differential bushings, do the hardware while you are in there. Both options fix the same two factory weaknesses; they differ in whether you are willing to drill.
| Lethal LP-550179 Extreme | BMR RH017 | |
|---|---|---|
| Rear bushing | Stronger bolt plus sleeve to eliminate the factory void | Stronger bolt replacement |
| Front bushing | Threads drilled out, through-bolt with nut, shear on the solid shank | Stronger bolt, factory threaded design retained |
| Strength gain, front | Roughly 70% stronger | Improved over stock |
| Drilling required | Yes, permanent | No |
Billet sleeve fills the rear void
Front converted to through-bolt
Requires drilling
No drilling required
The no-modification option
Frequently Asked Questions
Which BMR package should I start with?
Biscuits & Gravy, Level 1, for most people. It is BK081, TCA048 and CB010, it adds no NVH, and those parts have already seen 9-second runs and 1.3 60-foot times. Step up to Bread & Butter when you are chasing 8s.
What is the single most overlooked rear suspension part?
Kelly Aiken's answer is the BK081 spherical lower control arm bearing. Factory bushings contain voids that let the control arm move under load, and the spherical setup removes them.
How do I know if my cradle is moving?
Look for a witness mark on the body where the cradle bushing's top limiter contacts the chassis. On our track car that limiter was hitting the body under launch, which is unmistakable once you know to look.
How do I know if my differential has moved?
Check the metal alignment nubs on the front diff bushings. On a healthy car they are barely visible. If one side is protruding noticeably more than the other, the diff moved and re-seated diagonally. Also compare the rear bolt heights side to side.
Will these parts make my car loud?
Level 1 adds no NVH. Level 2 is minimal. Level 3 deliberately adds it, which is why the package is named "with a side of NVH." Choose accordingly.
Extreme bolt kit or BMR RH017?
Extreme if you will drill the front bushing, since moving the shear load onto the solid shank is roughly 70% stronger. RH017 if you want a stronger bolt without permanent modification.
Do I need double adjustable toe rods?
If you are driving the car hard, yes. The factory stamped steel rods use an eccentric bolt that slips and pivots under load, which changes your rear alignment while you drive. BMR's include lockout plates to defeat that.
What about the S650?
Most of these part numbers now cover 2015-2026, including S650, and there is a 2024-specific Bread & Butter package for Brembo, Performance Pack and Dark Horse cars. Check fitment against your exact car.
Keep Reading
Questions on which package suits your car? Email us or call and we will talk it through. Huge thanks to Kelly Aiken and everyone at BMR Suspension.
Put the Power Down
Three levels, from a daily driver that hooks to a total IRS solution. Start at Level 1 unless you already know you need more.