After what felt like years of waiting, we finally got coilovers for our Bronco: Eibach's Pro-Truck Stage 2 kit. And since the truck was going to be on jack stands anyway, we finished the rest of the suspension with the RPG Offroad parts we had been sitting on.
This is the whole job, front and rear, with the torque specs and socket sizes in one place. If you are still deciding what to buy rather than how to install it, start with the best Bronco suspension upgrades instead.
What's Going on the Truck
Eibach Pro-Truck Lift Stage 2 Coilover System
Eibach's coilover system works across the platform: two door or four door, Sasquatch or not. Height is the obvious draw. At the lowest setting you are looking at roughly 1.5 inches on a non-Sasquatch and 0.5 inches on a Sasquatch. At maximum, non-Sasquatch trucks see about 4 full inches all around, Sasquatch trucks around 3.
That range covers larger wheels and tires plus real ground clearance for anyone taking the truck into rough terrain. The championship-proven progressive spring design and variable force valving are what let it ride well on road and still deliver when the terrain demands it. Every component is made by Eibach in the USA.
Full RPG Offroad Suspension
Rear upper and lower links, front upper control arms, and tie rod kits. The reasoning behind each piece, especially the tie rods, is in our full RPG Offroad write-up.
Progressive springs, variable force valving
Made in the USA
Fixed length
Includes Grade 8 replacement bolt
Stock height up to 4" lift
Two tie rod ends thread on
Adjustable on the vehicle
Before You Start
- You need a press. The spherical bearings in the RPG links are pressed, not tapped. They have to go in flat and fully seated or you damage the link itself.
- Assemble the links on the bench first. Confirm you have every component before the truck is in the air.
- Anti-seize or grease the threads on any two-piece adjustable assembly. You will be adjusting these later and you will be glad.
- Budget for an alignment. Not optional. The truck goes to the alignment shop when you are done.
Bench Assembly
- Rear lower links: install one C-clip, press in the spherical bearing, then install the second C-clip and tap it lightly with a punch to make sure it is fully seated.
- Rear upper links: press in the spherical bearing, then thread in the spherical tie rod end. This is a two-piece assembly, which is what makes it adjustable on the truck later.
- Front upper control arms: one spherical bearing presses in, two spherical tie rod end links thread on.
- Front tie rods: two spherical tie rod end links thread on either side with a locking nut. Simple and strong, and easy to adjust.
Torque Specs & Tools
| Fastener | Tool | Torque |
|---|---|---|
| Rear upper and lower link bolts | 24mm socket | 159 ft-lbs |
| Rear link cover bolts | T25 Torx | 97 in-lbs (about 8 ft-lbs) |
| Fuel tank / skid plate bolts | 18mm socket | 59 ft-lbs |
| Rear lower strut mount | 27mm socket | OE spec |
| Rear upper strut nuts (3) | 15mm | OE spec |
| Front inner tie rod | Large crescent wrench | 89 ft-lbs |
| Front outer tie rod to spindle | - | 76 ft-lbs |
| Upper control arm pivot bolt | 21mm and 24mm | 122 ft-lbs |
| Upper control arm to spindle | 18mm wrench | 46 ft-lbs |
| Lower strut mount nuts (front) | 18mm socket | OE spec |
| Axle nut | 36mm socket | OE spec |
Rear Install
Start at the rear, and start with the RPG links. Lift and secure the truck, pull the wheels, and identify the upper and lower rear links before you take anything apart.
Support the rear axle with a jack. You will be raising and lowering it to line up the new links, so this is not optional.
The Fuel Tank Decision
Ford put a bolt where you cannot reach it. Your two options are dropping the fuel tank, or cutting the OEM bolt and using the Grade 8 replacement RPG includes. Decide now.
If you are dropping the tank: support it with a large surface area jack, a transmission jack with straps is right, then use an 18mm socket to loosen but not remove the 8 bolts holding the fuel tank and skid plate assembly. Disconnect the harness at the top of the tank along with the quick-disconnect vent tubes and feed line, checking every connection as you slowly lower it.
Lower Link
- With the tank out or lowered, remove the T25 Torx bolt holding the small cover, then loosen the blocked bolt with a 24mm socket. Leave it in place to support the bar for now.
- Remove the small cover on the last lower link bolt with the T25 Torx, then remove that bolt with the 24mm socket, followed by the first bolt and the entire OEM link.
- Install the assembled RPG lower link with your spacers arranged per RPG's instructions.
- Torque to OE spec with the OE hardware: 159 ft-lbs.
Upper Link
- Loosen both bolts with a 24mm socket, but do not fully remove the upper bolt until the lower is loosened and out.
- With the OEM link out, compare its length to your assembled RPG link and adjust the RPG link to closely match. This is what gives you a sane starting point for alignment.
- Install with the OE hardware. The two clamping bolts on the RPG upper link should face outward on either side. Note the spacer arrangement.
- Torque to 159 ft-lbs. Reinstall the small covers with the T25 Torx bolts at 97 in-lbs.
Reinstall the fuel tank and skid plate assembly if you dropped it, with a small amount of thread locker on each bolt, torqued to 59 ft-lbs. Then repeat everything on the opposite side.
Rear Coilovers
After the links, the Eibach coilovers took us under 20 minutes.
- Support the rear axle if it is not already. Loosen the lower strut mount with a 27mm socket. You can remove the bolt entirely, though you may need to move the axle up or down to relieve the weight.
- Remove the fender liner by pulling all the push-pins. This is what gets you to the strut mounting nuts.
- Loosen and remove the 3 nuts with a 15mm. Careful here: once they are out, the strut will drop out of the truck.
- Install the Eibach coilover starting at the top mount with the 3 bolts Eibach supplies. Once those are started, line up the bottom mount. Use the supplied spacers for proper mounting at the rear end.
- Install the lower bolt and snug everything up. Reinstall the fender liner.
Confirm everything at the rear is tightened and torqued before you move to the front.
Front Install
The front is the longer half, because the spindle has to come apart to get the strut out and the upper control arm in.
OEM Tie Rod Removal
- Remove the OE tie rod from the spindle, loosen the locking nut, and spin off the outer tie rod. Count how far the outer tie rod threads out. You need that number to reassemble it for comparison.
- Remove the clamp and the OE boot, then break the inner tie rod loose with a large crescent wrench and remove the whole assembly.
- Reassemble the OEM tie rod to the spec it was at on the truck, and compare it against your RPG tie rod. Adjust the RPG unit to roughly the same length.
- Install the RPG tie rod starting at the inner spherical link mount. Torque to 89 ft-lbs.
Spindle Disassembly
- Remove the brake caliper and ABS sensor and get both out of the way. This matters: it is how you avoid pulling a hose or a wire during the rest of the job.
- Remove the sway bar link from both spindles. One will not move without the other. You can also unbolt the sway bar assembly from the body, but we found doing the links easier and it worked fine.
- While you are under there, loosen the lower strut mount nuts with an 18mm socket.
- Loosen the nut holding the upper control arm into the spindle with an 18mm wrench. Give the spindle a light tap and the ball joint should pop right out.
- Remove the axle nut with a 36mm socket and slide the axle end out of the spindle. This buys you the movement you need to get the OE strut out and the Eibach in, and it avoids joint damage.
- Loosen the 3 15mm nuts at the top of the strut. Pry down on the lower control arm and the OE strut comes out.
RPG Upper Control Arm
With the strut out, this is the easiest the control arm swap will ever be.
- Remove the OE pivot bolt with a 21mm and 24mm. You may need to fold back some fender liner for access. The OE arm comes right out.
- Compare it to the RPG arm and adjust the RPG arm to match.
- Install with the OE pivot bolt and torque to 122 ft-lbs.
Front Coilover and Reassembly
- Loosely start the top three bolts on the Eibach coilover, then install the two bottom bolts into the lower control arm. With the lower bolts located, tighten upper and lower hardware.
- Reassemble the spindle, starting with the RPG control arm to the top of the spindle. Torque to 46 ft-lbs.
- Finish the tie rods: install the new boot with the provided clamps, then the outer link onto the spindle. Torque to 76 ft-lbs.
- Reinstall the caliper, ABS sensor, sway bar links, and axle nut.
Repeat on the opposite side.
Setting Ride Height
Manufacturing tolerances mean each coilover may need to sit at a slightly different height to get the truck level. This is normal and it is why you measure rather than count threads.
- Mount the wheels and tires and drive the truck a few feet to let the suspension settle.
- Measure each corner from the ground to the start of the fender flare.
- Adjust each coilover from there until the truck is level.
How It Drives
After the alignment and some break-in off-roading, this setup is right. It is a touch stiffer on the road, which is the expected trade, and the off-road experience benefits enormously. Noticeably more stable through both mud and sand.
The part that matters beyond ride quality: you are no longer driving around waiting for a stock component to let go. That is most of what you bought.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install Bronco coilovers and control arms in my driveway?
It is possible, but this job requires a press for the RPG spherical bearings and it is extensive. Professional installation is the honest recommendation, especially for the front.
Do I have to drop the fuel tank to install the rear lower links?
No. You can cut the blocked OEM bolt and use the Grade 8 replacement RPG includes in the kit. Dropping the tank is the alternative and it is the longer path.
What is the torque spec for the Bronco rear links?
159 ft-lbs on both the upper and lower rear link bolts. The small cover bolts are 97 in-lbs, roughly 8 ft-lbs.
How long does the Eibach coilover install take?
The rear coilovers took us under 20 minutes once the links were done. The front is considerably longer because the spindle has to be disassembled.
Do I need an alignment after installing Bronco suspension?
Yes. You are changing tie rod length, control arm geometry, and ride height. Budget for the alignment as part of the job.
How much lift do the Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 2 coilovers give?
At the lowest setting, about 1.5 inches on non-Sasquatch and 0.5 inches on Sasquatch. At maximum, roughly 4 inches on non-Sasquatch and 3 inches on Sasquatch.
Why do I need to compare the RPG parts to the OEM parts before installing?
Because matching the OEM length first gives you a usable starting point for alignment. Install them at an arbitrary length and the alignment shop has more work to do, or the truck is undriveable in the meantime.
Is the ride harsher after installing coilovers?
Slightly stiffer on road, yes. Considerably more composed and stable off road, which is the trade you are making on purpose.
Keep Reading
Stop Fearing the Stock Parts
Eibach coilovers, RPG links and arms, and techs who have done this install on their own truck.
