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A Little Tire History
Where did drag tires come from? The slicks we know today were invented in the 1950s by M&H (Marvin & Harry Tires) as a solution for guys racing their hot rods. Before that, racers shaved tread off street tires for more contact area, but the hard rubber made for inconsistency and little real traction. A company called Bit by Bruce had made recapped tires with no tread, but still hard. M&H took that idea and introduced a softer, stickier compound, creating the world's first production drag slicks.
Fun fact: before burnouts were a thing, a team's mechanic would wipe gasoline-soaked rags around the tires at the line to soften the rubber and improve grip. (Do not attempt this.)
Compounds
A softer compound means a stickier tire, but also less life, you cannot have your cake and eat it too. M&H compounds, from softest to hardest, run #8, HB-11, #703, #704, #20.
| Compound | Hardness | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| #8 | Softest | Tube-type slick, not DOT-certified. Extreme-traction soft compound for dragsters and door cars. Very consistent and effective with big-power cars. Moderate burnout recommended. |
| HB-11 | Medium | The same compound used in their Cheater Slicks and Drag Radials. Smaller sizes are primarily for FWD but work with AWD/RWD. Great on cars 3,500 lb or less. Light to moderate burnout. |
| #703 | Medium-Hard | Harder tube-type slick compound for longer life and heavier or higher-traction setups. |
| #704 | Hardest | Tube-type slick, not DOT-certified. Extreme-traction material, very effective on race cars 3,500 lb or less. Light to moderate burnout. |
| #20 | Hard | Hard-end compound built for durability and repeated passes. |
Mickey Thompson uses their R2 compound in nearly every drag radial and slick, paired with a proprietary sidewall design, polyester/steel belt construction, and directional tread for maximum traction with improved tire life. They also offer a stiff sidewall option (noted with an "S" on the part number) that reduces distortion for quicker reaction times, ideal for high-horsepower and heavier vehicles over 3,000 lb.
Sizing
To understand sizing, know what the numbers mean. Not every "45-series" tire is the same height. The second number is a percentage of the first.
235 = section width in millimeters
70 = aspect ratio (section height as a percent of width)
15 = rim diameter
Width: 235 / 25.4 = 9.25"Section height: 9.25" x 70% = 6.48"Overall diameter: (6.48" x 2) + 15 = 27.96"So a 235/70R15 is roughly 28" tall x 9.25" wide.
Rim width, air pressure, and sidewall construction all affect actual width, so use this as a guide. When shopping a specific size, go by the manufacturer's published dimensions rather than the sidewall size, not every 315 is built the same. That published rollout number matters too: a higher rollout lowers your chance of a red light and improves your holeshot. Also note that slicks "grow" at speed, Mickey Thompson slicks expand roughly 1 to 1.5 inches at 150 mph.
Tire Pressure
Pressure is hard to prescribe because weight distribution, transmission type, chassis setup, and wheel size all factor in. General starting points from the manufacturers:
- M&H: tires under 30" diameter run 12-16 psi, tires over 30" run 11-14 psi.
- Mickey Thompson: check the sidewall max and start around 75% of it, going down from there. For ET Street R and S/S tires, run 14-18 psi on the track and do not go below 13 psi.
Radial vs. Bias Ply
Radial tires have steel belts running around the tire at 90 degrees to the centerline. They are tougher (and heavier), run cooler, and last longer thanks to consistent belt pressure across the tire.
Bias-ply tires use nylon belts at 30-45 degrees to the centerline. They were the standard in the 60s and 70s and are now most common in drag slicks. Their signature sidewall wrinkle lets them absorb the shock of launch, protecting the rear axles and getting the car moving quicker. That is also why they are not ideal for street use out back, and they tend to sway at higher speeds.
Burnouts
Everybody does them, but how long depends on compound, weather, and track conditions. Mickey Thompson's R2 heats quickly and needs only a minimal burnout. M&H HB-11 tires need a moderate burnout on the first pass of the day, then light burnouts after. Ideally your tire temp should be within 15 degrees of the track temp (track at 100, tire between 85-115). If the track is over 120 degrees, stay on the lower side.
Top Drag Tire Brands
Two names dominate the launch pad, and we stock both:
- M&H: the original slick maker, with a wide compound range from the ultra-soft #8 to the durable #20 for dialing in traction versus life.
- Mickey Thompson: the R2 compound plus stiff-sidewall options make their ET Street radials and slicks a go-to for street-driven and dedicated drag cars alike.
Drag Tire FAQ
What is the difference between a drag radial and a slick?
Drag radials are DOT-style tires you can drive on the street, with radial construction that runs cooler and lasts longer. Slicks are dedicated race tires (often bias-ply, tube-type) that hook harder but are not street-legal.
What tire pressure should I run at the track?
It varies by tire and setup. As a starting point, M&H suggests 12-16 psi under 30" and 11-14 psi over 30"; Mickey Thompson ET Street tires run 14-18 psi, never below 13. Tune from there based on 60-foot times.
Radial or bias ply for my build?
Radials are better for street-driven cars and consistency; bias-ply slicks wrinkle on launch for maximum hook on a dedicated race car. Match it to how you actually use the car.
How long should my burnout be?
Just enough to get the tire to temperature, ideally within about 15 degrees of the track. Soft compounds like MT's R2 need very little; harder M&H compounds need a moderate first burnout, then light ones.
Get the Tire That Hooks
From street-driven drag radials to dedicated slicks, we carry M&H and Mickey Thompson in the sizes and compounds your build needs. Not sure what fits? We will help you spec it.
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